Even more tartan!

I turned in all my work last week, and had my last class yesterday, so I'm off to Luxembourg tomorrow afternoon.  I'm so excited!  In the meantime, in addition to working, packing, dancing, and hanging out with friends before we all disappear for a month, I've also continued my obsessive search for all (fashionable) things tartan.

There are several descriptions in English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century by Cecil Cunnington which, unfortunately, I can't access the pictures for (the downside of previews of google books...) that relate to the popularity of tartan in the mid-19th century.  Some highlights:

-1864: Carriage dress of tartan glace

-'tartan is the fashion and must be worn' (late 1860s, unsure of where this was quoted from)

-in 1859, a lady-in-waiting to Queen Victoria described the humiliation of the Duchess of Manchester, who had gotten a hoop from her cage crinoline stuck on a turnstile, and when she fell her skirts were flung above her head.  Luckily, she was wearing the newly-fashionable 'knickerbockers': in fact, hers were scarlet tartan.  Totally unnecessary, but I want a pair now...would scarlet tartan possibly be the hunter royal stewart?  I'm making my ball dress out of the dress version.  How awesome would it be to have drawers in the other?

I considered writing a bit about all of these...but there are a lot and I'm feeling a bit lazy. (I'm also currently watching Beauty and the Beast with my flatmate.  Yes, we do watch 1990s Disney movies on a regular basis, thankyouverymuch.)  Instead, I'm just going to split them chronologically.

In general, there seems to be an impression that tartan came into women's fashion with Queen Victoria's obsession with it (starting in the 1850s).  I find this to generally be reflected in the images I've seen, but there are definitely some fabulous earlier examples:

Portrait, 'A Jacobite Lady', c. 1745

I love the military look!

fashion plate, 1830s

Check out the cute tartan apron to the bottom left.

photograph of Charlotte Lockhart, descendant of Walter Scott, 1846

After its rise in women's fashion, it also blended well with the bright colors available through new chemical dyes:

From Godey's Lady's Book, Oct. 1855 

The bright trim looks more like tartan when it's bigger...

1860, from the collection at the Musee McCord

This was worn in Canada to the dedication of a bridge in honor of the Prince of Wales.  Apparently the family was Scottish, and this is based on the clan tartan.

from Harper's Bazaar, 1870

I really like the tartan-as-trim look.  I happened to find a ton of examples for the 1870s; Here are some highlights:

basque from Harper's Bazaar, 1875

walking dress, Harper's Bazaar 1870

I do like the tartan-as-everything look too, though this is a bit much.  I have noticed that in all the images I've found, any tartan ruffle is done on the diagonal.  Something to note for future sewing...

travelling dress, Harper's Bazaar 1870

In the process of investigating, I also found this suit from 1897.  It's technically 'wool check', not tartan, but it's awfully close and it's just a gorgeous outfit.

And, as always, accessories are a great place to add fashionable touches to the wardrobe...plus, I know exactly where to get an abundance of tartan ribbon.  Let the hat-making begin!

fashionable hats, 1827.  The top and bottom left involve tartan ribbon according to the accompanying description

from Godey's Lady's Book, 1859.  Bonnet to the top right trimmed in tartan.

 Of course, not all accessories are hats, and this is one of my favorites.

tartan cloak, Harper's Bazaar 1870

 I can't get over the bow. So cute.

Just one last thing and then I'll call it a night, as I have a busy day tomorrow...these actually aren't 19th century, but I found them in the Museum of Costume collection (located in Bath) and thought they were fantastic.  Apparently, the designer created them because the outfit included a hat in the same fabric.  A good use for scraps, and perfect accessorizing!

taffeta, 1947